Saturday, November 21, 2009

Darjeeling Day 3

last full day in Darjeeling.
and we decided to make another trek upon the same road (this being the farthest yet) out to the Tibetan Refugee Self-help Center.
the name says it all.
they support themselves primarily through carpet selling which they make right there.
on the premises.
from scratch.
in lovely lovely patterns.
certainly more interesting than the rugs we were shown in agra (though they did feel lovely, they just were rather typical of the rug world)
wait.
before that.
i must note the most fantastic bun in the world.
the taifon.
at least.
that is what i think its called.
wait.
or taifo? tofu?
there is a t.
and there is a f.
the vowels are still mysterious.
michiko swears its one thing.
and im sure its another.
no matter.
we took photos.
and i will look it up!
because it fucking fantastic.
large steamed bun with cabbage, some possibly not-quite meat and whatever they use to season it!
served with a flavorful broth and pot of hot chai.
its the most excellent breakfast.
at Dawat. again.
they knew us there by now.
lovely people.
okay.
back to the Tibetans.
and our long long walk.
should you ever go to Darjeeling.
i really do recommend getting out of the city center.
get beyond the dingy and wet.
though lacking in cows (and therefore lacking cow shit - woe is me) its not precisely beautiful.
however.
taking a stroll beyond all that.
is charming.
and occasionally when the sky clears a wee wee bit you can see the hillsides (though the himalaya had yet to reveal itself again) and all that green and its beautiful.
the houses along the way in bright coloring and fresh paint and porches lined with bag after bucket after pot of flowers -
oh! i loved it really.
really really.

the refugee center was good to see.
good.
however much smaller Tibetan community than in Dharamsala and Mcleod Ganj.
600-some i think is the current number.
but we were able to speak with a woman who worked in the hospital/clinic.
i had walked up to ask some basic questions and only after saying that i'm a nurse did she relax, smile, and take michiko and myself around their small facility.
primarily based upon volunteers from abroad.
for example currently they had a doctor from Taiwan who was assisting them for three months.
she did note something interesting in that currently, the tibetan refugees were not the only patients of the clinic. the poor of the surrounding communities also came because the service is much cheaper than in the main city of Darjeeling.
but generally they were only able to provide care dependent upon who was able to work.
again - for example - they currently had no ob/gyn provider and so were unable to focus specifically on those issues including pregnancy.
two Tibetan women worked (and lived in the settlement) as "unofficial nurses" but had done so for so many years i'm quite sure they knew what the hell they were doing, nevermind credentials. (i have credentials and still dont know what the hell im doing but dont tell my manager i said that)
medications were a blend of current and expired and usually provided by donations.
again.
i felt so charmed. this particular woman walking us around and working so very hard with her english (i feel so helpless at times - seeing people attempt to communicate in my language and i not even knowing a word of their own)
but then i think im developing a Tibet-crush.
and i spent a good 20 minutes just attempting to think up who in my life could possibly need a rug just so that i could buy one from them.
we spent some time just wondering the compound which includes a home for orphans, a home for the elderly (though the way those men and women move up and down those steps...) and a nursery.
in the end i grabbed a business card as the woman from the clinic stuck in my mind.
volunteer?
again.
im so so tempted.

the sky had opened up for us a little that day.
but still the himalaya was in hiding.
and i had to laugh - the primary reason for my bothering to endure a 24 hour journey to Darjeeling was for the mountains.
the view.
but thats alright i suppose.
all things in due time.

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