Train ride to New Jaipalguri

up before dawn to catch a train that would suck the life out of us for 17 hours.
im not kidding.
7 am until 12:30 am of the next fucking day we spent on that train.
the train from Varanasi to NJP station, on our way to Darjeeling (or rather a train station en route to our way to Darjeeling).
i knew the ride would be long (though it was 2 and half hours late) but damn.
DAMN.
trapped in an overstuffed sleeper class car.
the dingiest one yet.
(yes im complaining of the lack of cleaniless yet again. i am aware.
really. dont think too little of me i beg you)

we were not sure if they just sold too many tickets or others were hitching a ride or what the hell was going on, but there were heads, and limbs, and stinky feet everywhere. with the equivalent amount of chatter and noise.
people stuffed and hanging off every train cot.
including the ones we had actually paid for and supposedly were our own.

and everyone staring at us.
the entire way.
both in the car and from outside on the platforms of stations we stopped at.
there were times i simply held up my shawl to block the window just to sit or eat in peace.
it wasnt even possible to get up and walk the train car because that involved jumping over people blocking and sitting in the aisle.
michiko decided to just not drink anything (which she regretted the day after when she was so dehydrated she couldnt poop) to avoid having to pee.
the bathroom is another story.
i wont even go into it.
its - by now - old news.
just imagine the foul foul foul smells.

there.
thats the worst of it.
the upside.
was the view.
the passing countryside.
this area of india is greener. richer. farmland neat and tidy.
and when i wasnt swallowed up in one of the books i had purchased the day before i just loved watching the world go by in a blur of greens.

but.
be mindful of the roaches.
they come out in the evening.
and have no fear.